Cosmetic Ingredients and Acne
Before buying any cosmetic product, it is important to understand the meaning of the word comedogenic. Its definition is "tending to produce or aggravate acne". Therefore, a comedogenic ingredient or product is one that will exacerbate acne problems.
For this reason, it is a good idea to read the label of your skin care and cosmetic products before buying them. If you find any comedogenic ingredients, stay away from that product. If you have already purchased a product containing these types of ingredients, throw it out.
Acne Formation
Our skin's sebum is complex, composed of six or seven principal ingredients, including triglycerides and squalene, a precursor of cholesterol. The triglycerides are degraded on the surface of the skin by bacteria to liberate fatty acids, which cause acne breakouts in genetically predisposed families. As we will see, many cosmetics also include these acids. Unfortunately, some cosmetics include esters of fatty acids such as isopropyl mystrate or butyl stearate which are more likely to boost the production of some acne lesions. These cosmetics can interfere with traditional adult acne treatments.
Before we discuss cosmetic ingredients, we should consider the purpose of sebum. We could be under the impression that sebum is vital to our skin's health. However, there is no evidence to that effect. Apparently, the discharge of sebum is just a vestige whose usefulness has been lost in the process of evolution.
Sebum does not prevent wrinkles either. Wrinkling, or aging of the skin, is a consequence of accumulated sun exposure, and no moisturizer on the market is capable of reversing the natural, aging process.
Harmful Ingredients in Acne Treatments
3 main categories of offending ingredients
Lanolins Lanolin is, perhaps, the most common ingredient in cosmetics. Lanolin is simply sheep skin oil extracted from wool. The fatty acids in lanolin, just like fatty acids in our own oil, tend to accentuate some acne in the skin of individuals with genetic tendency towards acne. Many lanolin derivatives currently being used in cosmetics are damaging to acne-prone people, i.e., etoxylated lanolins and acetylated lanolins. The partially chemical lanolins are able to permeate skin pores even better than natural lanolin. Lanolin oil, itself, is acceptable.
Isopropyl Myristate and its Chemical Cousins
One of the strongest products is a penetrating oil called isopropyl myristate. It is the main component in penetrating rust remover called Liquid Wrench. Isopropyl Myristate helps cosmetics go on more softly and have a slicker feel. This particular penetrating oil is so aggressive that if left over night in a beaker, it will actually migrate over the top, down the borders and onto the table top. There are many chemicals similar to isopropyl myristate in cosmetics. The most common are: isopropyl palmitate, putty sterate, isostearyl neopentonate, octyl sterate, decyl oleate, isopropyl isothermal, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate and isocetyl stearate and PPG myristyl propionate. All must be avoided, as must other surfactants such as laureth-4.
Drugs As Acne Treatments
Perhaps one the most disturbing recent discoveries about acne-causing potential is the red colorations used in blushes. Some of the red dyes used in drugs and cosmetics are comedogenic. This discovery is not surprising considering they are coal tar derivatives. Ever since doctors realized that acne was an occupational hazard of chimney sweeps, coal tar has been known for its acne-causing properties. An adequate substitute for red tincture is carmine, a dye derived from insect wings and discovered by the Aztecs.
Always be on the look out for these comedogenic components. Take a moment and read product labels. This simple action can keep your skin beautiful and healthy.
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Published December 24th, 2007