Comedogenic Cosmetic Ingredients
Before buying any cosmetic product, it is important to understand the meaning of the word comedogenic. Its definition is "tending to produce or aggravate acne". Therefore, a comedogenic ingredient or product is one that will only make your acne problems worse.
For this reason, it is a good idea to read the label of your skin care and cosmetic products before buying them. If you find any comedogenic ingredients, stay away from that product. If you have already purchased a product containing these types of ingredients, throw it out.
Acne Formation
Our skin's sebum is complex, composed of six or seven principal ingredients, including triglycerides and squalene, a precursor of cholesterol. The triglycerides are broken down on the surface of the skin by microbes to liberate fatty acids, which cause acne episodes in genetically predisposed families. As we shall see, many cosmetics also include these acids. Unfortunately, some cosmetics include esters of fatty acids such as isopropyl mystrate or butyl stearate which are more likely to boost the production of some acne lesions. These cosmetics can interfere with traditional adult acne treatments.
Before we discuss cosmetic ingredients, we should consider the purpose of sebum. We could be under the impression that sebum is vital to our skin's health. However, there is no evidence to that effect. Apparently, the discharge of sebum is simply a vestige whose function has been lost in the path of evolution.
Sebum does not prevent wrinkles either. Wrinkling, or aging of the skin, is a consequence of accumulated sun exposure, and no moisturizer on the market is capable of reversing this exhaustion of tissues.
Harmful Ingredients in Acne Treatments
Three main categories of offending ingredients
Lanolins Lanolin is, perhaps, the most common ingredient in cosmetics. Lanolin is simply sheep skin oil taken from wool. The fatty acids in lanolin, just like fatty acids in our own oil, can accentuate some acne in the skin of individuals with genetic tendency towards acne. Many lanolin by-products currently being used in cosmetics are harmful to acne-prone people, i.e., etoxylated lanolins and acetylated lanolins. The partially synthetic lanolins are capable of penetrating skin pores even better than biological lanolin. Lanolin oil, itself, is acceptable.
Isopropyl Myristate and its Chemical Cousins
One of the strongest components is a penetrating oil known as isopropyl myristate. It is the main component in penetrating rust remover called Liquid Wrench. Isopropyl Myristate aids cosmetics go on more softly and have a slicker feel. This particular penetrating oil is so invading that if left over night in a beaker, it will actually migrate over the top, down the sides and onto the table top. There are several chemicals similar to isopropyl myristate in cosmetics. The most common are: decyl oleate, octyl sterate, putty sterate, isopropyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate, isopropyl isothermal, isostearyl neopentonate and isocetyl stearate and PPG myristyl propionate. All must be avoided, as must other surfactants such as laureth-4.
Drugs As Acne Treatments
Maybe one the most troublesome recent findings about acne-producing potential is the red colorations used in blushes. Some of the red dyes used in drugs and cosmetics are comedogenic. This discovery is not surprising considering they are coal tar by-products. Ever since doctors noticed that acne was an occupational hazard of chimney sweeps, coal tar has been known for its acne-causing properties. An acceptable substitute for red color is carmine, a dye extracted from insect wings and discovered by the Aztecs.
Always be on the look out for these comedogenic components. Take a moment and read product labels. This simple action can keep your skin beautiful and healthy.
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Published December 24th, 2007